![]() That thing is an anvil-shaped coffee table! Then I am content with my long skinny Refflinghaus and my short fat 95lb (? never put it on a scale) unmarked colonial pattern.Ī big anvil is more efficient IF you're using a team of strikers. When I get a touch of big iron envy I go to a friends' house and look at his 5 CWT Brooks. But for the actual smiths outside the iron production areas, they were tiny in comparison to our modern thoughts on anvil size.īut I'm not getting rid of my 100Kg Refflinghaus. Yes, they had large stone anvils for processing blooms into bars. And these are what they made swords, etc. If you look at Viking and earlier iron age anvils, they are what we'd call a stump anvil or bickern in size, rarely more than 20 pounds. I've always found the saying “You can work small stuff on a large anvil, but can't work large stuff on the small anvil” to be incorrect. It really comes down to what you like/want. I've forged plenty of large iron on my 100 lb anvil. ![]() Just remember you're out on the heel and going too heavy can have consequences On the other hand, as the pritchel hole is also large, you can make tooling to fit it. Also, with older anvils, the heavier the weight, the larger the hardy hole, both the 400 and 600 have 1 1/2 inch holes. The 600 lb takes a lot more to move and I'm seldom hitting it that hard :-) The con is working small stuff on the far side. With the larger anvil, the pro is you have to overcome the mass before it dances about, but even my 400 lb Fisher will turn in place if I spend much time on the horn. The con, it must be firmly anchored to the stand and the stand to the ground, otherwise the anvil will dance a bit, especially when using the horn. An example of that is when forging small cabinet pulls. The pro with the smaller, or better said, narrow anvils, is that it's easy to work on the far side without the anvil face getting in the way of the tongs. There's pros and cons to both small and large anvils. Please contact me, and I can give you an exact description of the anvil's dimensions.Is it wrong that I’m considering a 300lb Fisher that showed up near me? I feel like that’s a bit over kill!! If you have any questions on this please contact me and I can go over the details and the specifics on the anvil you are buying. There are a small percentage of my latest shipment of 260# Classic anvils that will require some casting clean up. The vast majority of the anvils require very little work. One of the reasons the anvils I sell are such a high quality value is that I leave it to the customer to dress the anvil (radius the edges, chamfer the hardy hole if desired and do a small amount of cleanup that is associated with a casting of any kind). You will have some clean up work to do in order to make the hardy hole one uniform size in some of the 260# anvils in my latest batch, to meet off the shelf tooling requirements. Anvils similarly need some dressing as well. Usually a new hammer has to have the edges radiused and the peen needs to be ground to blunt the sharp edges on it. This is similar to dressing a new hammer. Most new anvils require some degree of dressing and clean up by the first owner of the anvil. Those of us who have only experienced used anvils, assume that a good, clean used anvil arrived in it's present condition when first delivered to the first owner. To put this in perspective, most new anvils require some degree of dressing by the first owner. ![]() If buy off the shelf steel and weld you hardy tools, this will impact you. If you forge your hardy tools from old truck or car axles this should not have any impact on your tooling. These are cast steel anvils and there is some degree of variation in the 260 lb Classic anvil's hardy size. Dimensions of hardy holes in some of the 260 # anvils may vary by up to 1/8".
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